View from Jingshan Park, overlooking the Forbidden City
View from Jingshan Park, overlooking the Forbidden City

Before the exchange, my Mandarin was ‘classroom Mandarin’. I could introduce myself, order off a menu if it had pictures, and read pinyin perfectly fine. What I couldn’t do was properly keep up with someone speaking at a natural speed, which is a pretty big problem when you’re about to live somewhere for six months.

Now I’m back in Sydney, and I can hold a proper conversation. It’s not at the level of a native speaker, and it’s definitely not perfect, but it’s a conversation nonetheless. This post is basically just me trying to figure out what actually made the difference.

What was easier than I expected

Survival Mandarin comes fast.

Within the first couple of weeks, the daily stuff was automatic: ordering food, buying things, asking where something is, saying “不用了” to the bag at the supermarket. You say the same twenty sentences every day, so you get a lot of reps in quickly.

Phones do half the talking

WeChat and Alipay cover payments, food delivery, bike sharing, booking appointments, paying rent, and more. So a lot of a situations that would be stressful in another language never even come up. That’s great for getting by, but it also meant I had to go looking for chances to actually speak.

Reading got better without me even trying

Menus, metro signs, shopfronts, and WeChat messages meant I was reading characters all day. I picked up a lot of words just by seeing them over and over in the same place.

People are patient

Most people were happy to slow down or repeat themselves once they saw I was trying. A lot of them would compliment my Chinese after just one sentence, saying something like “你中文说得真好” which is nice but also a sign you’re not actually that good yet.

What was hard

Listening (by a mile)

Speaking was slow but I could plan what I was going to say. Listening gives you no time at all. Native speakers run words together, drop syllables, and fill gaps with particles, so for the first month or so I’d catch maybe 1 in every 3 words and guess the rest from context.

Phone calls

Delivery riders ringing to say they couldn’t find the delivery area of my building was my biggest fear for a while. No face, no gestures, background traffic noise, and usually a very strong accent. By the end I could handle it, mostly by learning the exact phrases they use.

Tones when speaking fast

I know the tones when I’m saying a word on its own. Put it in a bigger sentence at normal talking-speed they fall apart. People usually understood me from context anyway, which is good (and bad, because nobody corrected me then).

The small words

Particles like 吧,呢,啊,and 嘛 carry a lot of tone and attitude, and textbooks barely explain them. Measure words are also really tricky to remember - luckily if I ever forget a measure word I can just default to 个 and it works, it just sounds a little wrong.

Humour

Understanding a joke is a whole extra level beyond understanding the words. An incomprehensible amount of slang, wordplay, and references have gone straight over my head, so I spent a lot of group conversations laughing a second late.

Textbook Mandarin vs Beijing Mandarin

The Mandarin you learn in class is usually 普通话, or “standard Chinese”. It’s officially based on the Beijing dialect, but it would be very wrong to assume that means Beijing Mandarin sounds anything like textbook Mandarin. It doesn’t. Local Beijing speech (北京话) is close enough that you can follow it, but different enough to confuse you constantly at the start.

儿化音 (erhua)

This is the famous one. Beijingers add an “r” sound to the end of lots of words. 哪 (nǎ) becomes 哪儿 (nǎr) and 一点 (yìdiǎn) becomes 一点儿 (yìdiǎnr). Textbooks mention it, but in Beijing it’s everywhere: 玩儿, 好玩儿, 门儿, 胡同儿, 遛弯儿, even on words where I didn’t expect it.\The tricky part is that the “r” changes the syllable before it, not just the end. 一块儿 (yíkuàir) sounds more like “yí kuàr” because the “i” sound gets ‘swallowed’. Once my ear adjusted, I started noticing how much Beijing Mandarin sounds like it’s being spoken through a slight smile.

‘Swallowed’ syllables

Beijing speech is fast and lazy in the way many languages’ casual speech is. It reminds me of classic casual Australian English - syllables and common phrases get squashed, slurred, and shortened so much that it’s almost comical to put it side-by-side with standard Mandarin. For example:

  • 不知道 (bù zhīdào) often sounds closer to “bùr dào”
  • 这样 (zhèyàng) can come out as something like “zhàng”
  • 我们 can shrink to almost just “m’n”

There’s also a lot of neutral tone (轻声), where the second syllable of a word loses its tone and goes light and short. Words like 东西,告诉,and 地方 sound much softer than the way I was taught to say them carefully.

Retroflex sounds

Beijingers really commit to “zh”, “ch”, and “sh”, with the tongue curled right back. People from southern China often ‘flatten’ these into “z”, “c”, and “s”, so 是 (shì) sounds closer to “sì”. Once you’ve heard both, you start being able to guess vaguely where someone is from.

您

In Beijing, you hear the polite 您 (as opposed to informal 你) a lot more than I expected, especially from shop staff and older people, and it’s used warmly rather than formally. I made a habit of using it with anyone older than me, which seemed to go down well.

Some slang I picked up

Some of these I use, some I just learned to recognise:

Word Pinyin Roughly means
倍儿 bèir really, super (倍儿好, 倍儿棒)
甭 béng don’t bother, no need (a squashed 不用)
得嘞 dé lei alright then, will do
局气 júqi generous, does the right thing
发小儿 fàxiǎor childhood friend
哥们儿 gēmenr mate, bro
侃大山 kǎn dàshān chat for ages, shoot the breeze
遛弯儿 liù wānr go for a stroll
门儿清 ménr qīng know something inside out
颠儿了 diānr le leave, head off
撮一顿 cuō yí dùn go out for a big meal

得嘞 is the one I ended up using most. Saying it to a shop owner or a 的哥 (taxi driver) always got a grin, probably because it sounds a bit funny coming from a foreigner.

Where I’ve ended up

I think the biggest change is actually confidence, more so than vocabulary. At the start, I’d rehearse a sentence in my head before saying it, and then start stressing if the reply wasn’t what I’d planned for. Now I just start talking and fix it as I go. If I don’t know a word I can talk around it, and if I don’t understand something I can ask in Chinese instead of switching to English or nodding and hoping.

I can now have a proper back-and-forth conversation about everyday things, uni, travel, and plans. I can follow most of a conversation between native speakers, provided they’re not talking about something technical. I can handle taxi rides, phone calls, bank visits, and other admin without having someone translating. I can also understand a lot of what I hear in passing on the street, not just what’s said directly to me.

Things I still can’t do: watch a TV show without subtitles, follow fast group conversations full of in-jokes, or talk about anything technical in any depth. Explaining what my degree is about in Chinese is still a bit of a mess…

What actually helped

Honestly, being forced to use it is what helped the most. Classes gave me structure, but the improvement came from all the small daily interactions where English wasn’t an option. A few things that made a noticeable difference:

  1. Saying yes to talking!! Chatting with the person at the fruit stand, the barber, or the taxi driver felt awkward at first. But those low-stakes conversations are where I got most of my practice.
  2. Learning phrases, not words. Learning 麻烦您 or 我看一下 as one chunk worked much better than building sentences from scratch every time.
  3. Copying other people. I’d steal phrases straight from friends and repeat them, even before I fully understood the grammar myself.
  4. Accepting sounding stupid. I accepted that it was effectively guaranteed I’d be getting things wrong in front of other people constantly. Once that stopped bothering me, I started speaking a lot more.

Keeping it up from Sydney

The risk is now losing it. Sydney has plenty of Mandarin around, so my plan is to keep using it on purpose: messaging friends from Beijing in Chinese, watching shows with Chinese subtitles instead of English ones, and not switching to English the second a conversation gets too hard.

Six months didn’t make me fluent, but it took Mandarin from something I studied to something I’ve actually proven I can use. I made a much bigger jump than I expected. 下次回北京, 我希望能听懂所有的笑话. Probably not all of them though. 慢慢来.